Today was the day. I finally put together all of the necessary parts, tools, and time to give my commuter bike the care it deserves. I haven't ridden the old Rockhopper since last Tuesday. I attempted a ride to work, but quickly turned around. The old bottom bracket I removed, then put back was creaking so badly I was afraid I may not make it. Above all else, the noise was really annoying!
Those days are now in the past. Many thanks to
Sheldon Brown for your many helpful articles and links. You were truly a bicycle guru. Also, thanks to Cy from Keystone Ski Patrol; who showed me the ropes of bicycle repair when I was in
Summit County. I would never have even attempted a project like this without your guidance. For my own future reference, and to serve as a guide to any other cycle-repair adventurers, I have done my best to photograph this process. The following is a description of the Brother Trucker Bottom Bracket project:
The Supplies
Chain Cleaner:
Good for removal of grease, dirt, and rust from drive-train and frame parts.
Waterproof Lubricant:
Prevents rust and makes parts easier to remove the next time...hopefully.
Multi-Tool:
Always have one nearby, whether riding or repairing. This thing is endlessly handy.
Chain Breaker:
Removes rivets from bike chains.
Crank Puller:
Removes Cranks from bottom bracket. Seriously, there is no other way to remove them!
Bottom Bracket Tool:
Different bottom brackets require different tools. Make sure you have the correct one for the job. For details on bottom bracket tools, as always: See
Sheldon Brown.
New Chain:
Always replace the chain along with any new drive-train parts. Chances are if you need a new bottom bracket, you also need a new chain. The links and rivets in a chain wear after miles of use. This results in 'stretching'. When the chain is worn out, it no longer fits correctly against the teeth of the chain ring and rear cassette. I should also have replaced the big chain-ring, because it looks pretty worn (as you will soon see); but that is another project for another time.
The Bottom Bracket:
The whole reason for this project. Bottom brackets are the center of the drive-train. This is the little spindle-looking thing that connects the pedals and cranks to the bike. When you pedal your bike, you are spinning the bottom bracket; which is connected to the chain by the chain rings(which are connected to the right-hand crank). The chain rings move the chain, which in-turn moves the rear cassette. The rear cassette is connected to the rear wheel, and the wheel turns. This completes the power transfer from your foot on the pedal to the wheel on the road.
First, I used the chain breaker to remove the old chain from the bike.
Use the multi-tool to remove the screws/dust covers from the crank. This is what connects the crank to the bottom bracket.
The dust cover removed.
My cranks have a square-shaped hole where the bottom bracket is connected. The crank-puller I bought seems to be made with a circular connection in mind. I improvised with a small socket. This fit into the smaller opening, and removed the crank.
Now the bottom bracket removal. On the left-side of the bike, the screw-in-part is made of plastic. I apologize for my lack for correct terminology here, but I don't know what this stuff is actually called. The bottom bracket tool fits right into the plastic piece, and it unscrews to the left (lefty-loosy).
The right-hand side is made of metal. The tool fits the same way, but the part unscrews to the right rather than the left. Sheldon Brown explains that this is because of the direction the crank turns. It would unscrew itself if it turned the other direction. Also, the first time I removed this part; I had a really hard time. I had to do some reading before I figured out the directional thing, and it didn't help that it was quite rusted inside. When I put it back together, because I wasn't able to find the part required, I greased it; and this made removal a lot easier the next time.
I used the chain spray to remove as much rust and old grease as I could from inside the frame.
The new parts fit just as they should.
I decided to take the chainring apart and clean it with the degreaser as well. I also used it on the rear cassette. There is no sense in putting a clean chain onto a dirty bike! As you could see, the frame needed some love too. I took a little time and cleaned that as well.
I don't know what is the standard chain length, but when I put this one next to the other; it seemed like a couple of links should be removed. Also, the 'stretch' factor was evident. The links on the old chain did not match the new. Please keep in mind that there are different chain link lengths, and you should consult your local bike shop (like I did) if you aren't sure what chain to buy. You don't want to mismatch your chain to your gears.
After removing 3 links, the chain was ready to go on the bike.
SRAM chains have a 'master' link that makes installation very simple. Just put the link together and apply some pressure using the pedals, and the rivets will slide into place.
This seems to be a good all-purpose chain lube. Everyone seems to have their own opinions on the subject, but this was recommended to me by a bike mechanic; and I think it's great.
That's that! This really was a lot easier than I could have imagined. Start to finish, I think I may have spent 2 hours. My eyes are opened, and the possibilies are endless! There are other projects we will get into other days. For now, maybe it's time for a ridel Until next time...I'll see you on the trail!
