More Drive Train Work

Since my previous post Brother Trucker Bike has not performed as well as it should have.  When I would shift to a smaller gear on the rear cassette, then stand up on the pedals; the chain would slip.  I checked the cassette for wear, and it didn't seem in bad shape, so I thought I had been sold a chain with an incorrect 'frequency'.  As always, see sheldonbrown.com for details on chains.  I rode to Rasmussen Bike Shop yesterday to get a second opinion, and the mechanic thought it might be the front chainring or the cassette causing the mismatch.  For about $25 they had me back on the road.  Having ridden a couple of times since, all seems to be well now.  No more chain slippage!  I like to try to do my own work, but the price was hard to beat.  I would have doubled that with the tools I needed.  So...let's call this one a draw.  I will tackle the next challenge as it comes.  Until then...See you on the trail!

Brother Trucker Bike Gets a New Bottom Bracket...For Real This Time!

Today was the day.  I finally put together all of the necessary parts, tools, and time to give my commuter bike the care it deserves.  I haven't ridden the old Rockhopper since last Tuesday.  I attempted a ride to work, but quickly turned around.  The old bottom bracket I removed, then put back was creaking so badly I was afraid I may not make it.  Above all else, the noise was really annoying!  

Those days are now in the past.  Many thanks to Sheldon Brown for your many helpful articles and links.  You were truly a bicycle guru.  Also, thanks to Cy from Keystone Ski Patrol; who showed me the ropes of bicycle repair when I was in Summit County.  I would never have even attempted a project like this without your guidance.  For my own future reference, and to serve as a guide to any other cycle-repair adventurers, I have done my best to photograph this process.  The following is a description of the Brother Trucker Bottom Bracket project:

The Supplies

Chain Cleaner:  

Good for removal of grease, dirt, and rust from drive-train and frame parts. 

Waterproof Lubricant:

Prevents rust and makes parts easier to remove the next time...hopefully.

Multi-Tool:

Always have one nearby, whether riding or repairing.  This thing is endlessly handy.

 

Chain Breaker:

Removes rivets from bike chains.

Crank Puller:

Removes Cranks from bottom bracket.  Seriously, there is no other way to remove them!

  

Bottom Bracket Tool:

Different bottom brackets require different tools.  Make sure you have the correct one for the job.  For details on bottom bracket tools, as always:  See Sheldon Brown.

New Chain:

Always replace the chain along with any new drive-train parts.  Chances are if you need a new bottom bracket, you also need a new chain.  The links and rivets in a chain wear after miles of use.  This results in 'stretching'.  When the chain is worn out, it no longer fits correctly against the teeth of the chain ring and rear cassette.  I should also have replaced the big chain-ring, because it looks pretty worn (as you will soon see); but that is another project for another time.

The Bottom Bracket:

The whole reason for this project.  Bottom brackets are the center of the drive-train.  This is the little spindle-looking thing that connects the pedals and cranks to the bike.  When you pedal your bike, you are spinning the bottom bracket; which is connected to the chain by the chain rings(which are connected to the right-hand crank).  The chain rings move the chain, which in-turn moves the rear cassette.  The rear cassette is connected to the rear wheel, and the wheel turns.  This completes the power transfer from your foot on the pedal to the wheel on the road.

First, I used the chain breaker to remove the old chain from the bike.  

Use the multi-tool to remove the screws/dust covers from the crank.  This is what connects the crank to the bottom bracket.

The dust cover removed.

My cranks have a square-shaped hole where the bottom bracket is connected.  The crank-puller I bought seems to be made with a circular connection in mind.  I improvised with a small socket.  This fit into the smaller opening, and removed the crank.

Now the bottom bracket removal.  On the left-side of the bike, the screw-in-part is made of plastic.  I apologize for my lack for correct terminology here, but I don't know what this stuff is actually called.  The bottom bracket tool fits right into the plastic piece, and it unscrews to the left (lefty-loosy).

 

The right-hand side is made of metal.  The tool fits the same way, but the part unscrews to the right rather than the left.  Sheldon Brown explains that this is because of the direction the crank turns.  It would unscrew itself if it turned the other direction.  Also, the first time I removed this part; I had a really hard time.  I had to do some reading before I figured out the directional thing, and it didn't help that it was quite rusted inside.  When I put it back together, because I wasn't able to find the part required, I greased it; and this made removal a lot easier the next time.

I used the chain spray to remove as much rust and old grease as I could from inside the frame.

The new parts fit just as they should.  

I decided to take the chainring apart and clean it with the degreaser as well.  I also used it on the rear cassette.  There is no sense in putting a clean chain onto a dirty bike!  As you could see, the frame needed some love too.  I took a little time and cleaned that as well.

I don't know what is the standard chain length, but when I put this one next to the other; it seemed like a couple of links should be removed.  Also, the 'stretch' factor was evident.  The links on the old chain did not match the new.  Please keep in mind that there are different chain link lengths, and you should consult your local bike shop (like I did) if you aren't sure what chain to buy.  You don't want to mismatch your chain to your gears.

After removing 3 links, the chain was ready to go on the bike.

SRAM chains have a 'master' link that makes installation very simple.  Just put the link together and apply some pressure using the pedals, and the rivets will slide into place.

This seems to be a good all-purpose chain lube.  Everyone seems to have their own opinions on the subject, but this was recommended to me by a bike mechanic; and I think it's great.

That's that!  This really was a lot easier than I could have imagined.  Start to finish, I think I may have spent 2 hours.  My eyes are opened, and the possibilies are endless!  There are other projects we will get into other days.  For now, maybe it's time for a ridel  Until next time...I'll see you on the trail!

Monsoon

It appears it's time to accept that Des Moines may never see the sun again.  60 degree temperatures and rain are the new 85 degrees and sunshine.  The trails will always be under water, and the city will have to scoop the mud out from under the railroad trestle on the Neal Smith at least once a week.  I'm only kidding, of course.  We will have our mid-western summer eventually.  For the time being, it is a good idea to take some measures to fight the dampness!  While ordering a new bottom bracket for Brother Trucker, the bike, I added a set of SKS Beaver Tail fenders to my shopping cart at Amazon.com.  That half of the order arrived on Thursday, and I still await the delivery of the drive train component; so this weekend's BikerBlogger tutorial will involve fender installation!  One is never supposed to say this, but...these look pretty easy to attach.  Let's get to work!!

Tools you will need:

Socket Wrench

Pliers or Adjustable Wrench

These are plastic fenders designed for 26" to 28" wheels.  They are a perfect fit for a mountain bike with slick tires, though I am sure they would work for off-road tread as well.  As you can see in the slide show, the bracket system is very simple.  The design allows installation through factory mounting holes.  Let's start at the front.  The mounting hardware consists of two screws and two metal brackets.  The longer of the two screws seems to be measured with the front fork in mind.  Slide the screw through the bracket, then through the frame.  Attach the nut using your socket wrench, while using the pliers or adjustable wrench to hold the head of the screw in place.  Once the nut is fairly snug, the height of the bracket can be adjusted to fit the wheel.  Once the mounting bracket is in place, installation of the fender is pretty simple.  Just slide the metal bracket through the opening on top of the fender.  The fit is snug enough that there is no need for any other fasteners.  Once the fender is on the mounting bracket can be bent to the ideal angle for your wheel.  Rear installation is basically the same.  I don't know if all mountain bikes are made this way, but it seems the holes in the frame are drilled with this sort of thing in mind.  This install was flawless!  

After a two hour test run on soggy, paved trail through woods resembling Dagobah; these fenders seem to be my best $15 purchase in recent memory.  My feet stayed dry, and so did the water bottle in the cage.  Maybe this bike deserves a bath?...Naaah!  

I expect to see that bottom bracket any day now.  The next tutorial-ish post will be drive train maintenance.  Until then....See you on the trail!

Brother Trucker Bike Gets a New Bottom Bracket

I bought this early 90's Rockhopper out of the Register for $60 in 2002 or 3.  Its name is Brother Trucker after the famed, Des Moines alt-country band.  It was for many years my drinking bike, and has seen me home from the Cumming Tap more times than I can remember...seriously, I can't remember some of them!   While I was in Summit County, Colorado, Brother Trucker was my single-track bike, and assisted in the fracture of several ribs. This horse has seen countless partying/training miles, and currently serves as my commuter.  I think its last tune-up preceded a self-contained RAGBRAI in 2006.  Since I have turned my new cycle-commuting leaf, I have decided to learn a little more about bicycle maintenance. I once met a couple of guys who were backyard bike mechanics.  They helped me upgrade my roadie's outdated shimano 105's to a newer SRAM Rival setup.  I mostly just watched, but gleaned what I could from the experience.  Soon I will attempt to put this knowledge to use.  Over the last few weeks I have put together a new collection of cycling tools:  

Chain Tool

Bottom Bracket Tool

Crank Puller

These, I used to take apart my drive train kind of like this: 

Chain Tool

Chain Removed

Removed Dust Covers 

Removed Cranks with Crank Puller

(For better tool and part removal instructions:

Please refer to Sheldon Brown)

Bottom Bracket Tool/Removal of Bottom Bracket

A rusty Bottom Bracket.  This is a Shimano UN54 73x118 sealed.  The one on the bike is a UN52with the same measurements, but those were discontinued by Shimano.  I have no idea what UN52 and UN54 mean, but UN54 is the only one in current production.  I was told by a bike mechanic to be careful about the measurements, however.  If you have a bottom bracket with an incorrect width for your drivetrain, your shifting sequence will be incorrect.  I read something, somewhere on Sheldon Brown's site about this too.  It seems like sound advice.

After all of the energy expended removing this rusty bottom bracket, it turned out I was not able to get a new one in a local shop.  Surely, someone has one; but Rasmussen and Bike World were both closed by the time I had everything apart.  Sadly, the advice on the bottom bracket had to come from a kid at Scheel's.  I don't like to buy from there, but the staff is really nice and knowledgeable!  Nonetheless, my bottom bracket is en route from an undisclosed location by Amazon.com.  Brother Trucker was reassembled with original parts, and has resumed cycle-commuting service until replacement parts arrive.  There will be more to come on amateur bicycle maintenance soon.  Until then...See you on the trail!

Bicycle Tutor - Bike Repair Video Tutorials

This site is a fount of useful bicycle knowledge!

Bicycle Tutor - Bike Repair Video Tutorials

Welcome to BikerBlogger!

I am Jeff, and this is my new bike blog.  For the few (none) of you who have been following JDFreedom, and enjoying my perspective on all things cycling in the Des Moines area...it's time to update your RSS feeds!  This is your new source for cycling commentary in the metro.  I realize the picture above does not create an accurate depiction of the cycle-friendly community this city has created, but I don't have any other pics of myself with a helmet on my head.  

A commitment was made during Bike Month (see JDFreedom posts on the subject) to continue my cycle-commuting initiative beyond a few short weeks in May.  I only live three miles from work, and there is no excuse for me to drive a car every day.  With a few exceptions, I have kept up my end.  

The old Rockhopper has once again donned the slick tires, and has served me well this late spring.  The last two weeks have been spent gathering tools and knowledge (thank you Rasmussen Bike Shop and Sheldon Brown) in order to replace its bottom bracket.  This will be my first solo cycle repair endeavor, and I shall blog it!  Be there for all of the blood, sweat, and gears at BikerBloggerDSM.  Until then...I'll see you on the trails!